šī gada sākumā izgāju visam šim cauri. Sapratu, ka no Hondas FRV 2008 gada, jātiek ātri vaļā kamēr vēl laba cena. Pārdevu. Par iegūto naudu meklēju auto, kas būtu cenā ap 10000 Ls un ar bendzīnu/gāzi un universāls. Apskatīju visus ko minēja citi komentētāji iepriekšs. daudziem tiešās iesmidzes dzinēji un gāzi tādiem nerekomendē uzstādīt... runā,ka var, bet labāk nevajag. tāpēc daudzi auto atkrita. Japāņiem kuriem ir liels izmērs - arī cena liela. Izmeiģināju Ford Focus Universālu. Bija kur piekasīties, bet cena atsvēra visu. Ar atlaidi cena bija 10500 Ls (ar visu gāzes iekārtu). Nezinu vai šogad arī būs tādas atlaides, bet noteikti uzmet aci. Esmu ļoti apmierināts - auto ekonomisks 7.5 l/100 km pa pilsētu. Kluss (nu ja salīdzina ar japāņiem) Un kas man ļoti patīk - vadāmība labākā klasē. Te jūtams wrc piesitiens. Tieši vadāmībā, nevis jaudā jo motors 115 Zs, laikam... bet ģimenes pārvietošanai pietiek.

To Captain. Problēma jau tā, ka tas viss sākās vasarā. Ar aukstumu tam nekā kopīga.

Liels paldies WALA. Jārunā ar dīzeļ dzinēju speciālistiem - par kuru blīvslēgu šeit ir runa...

izrādās es neesmu vienīgais, palasot forumus daudziem ir šīs problēmas. Visi vaino - pump seal. Kā saprotu tā ir sūkņa blīve vai blīvslēgs, pa kuru ierauj gaisu. It kā ir aprakstīts kā to novērst, bet neesmu tik advancēts angļu valodā lai sapratsu visu. Tulkotāj programmas arī iztulko tā, ka nevar saprast...

Varbūt kāds var patūlkot:

Hi astroman,you can take the pump off yourself in 2-3 hours ish,and it can be done through the bonnet opening .

Its not that difficult but some bolts are awkward.

1st turn your engine over with a 22 mm socket on the end of the crank pulley till the notch on the pulley lines up with tdc on the timing case with cylinder 1 on compression,look through the oil filler and you can just see the cam with a torch,the intercooler needs to come off,then all the pipework and wiring (multi plugs and heater plug cable)needs to be removed/pushed out of the way,take the throttle cable,air con actuator and fuel pipes off,injector pipes need to come off too,the pump is bolted to a flange with 2 bolts,LEAVE THESE TIGHT,DO NOT UNDO as it will alter your timing.The flange itself is bolted through the timing case with four 12mm bolts,one of which is behind the aircon pump bracket but can be undone with a spanner.

At the bottom rear of the fuel pump you will find a bracket that has one 14mm bolt into the pump and two 14mm bolts into the block,this is between the pump and starter motor and awkward to get to ,I found it easier to take the two out of the block.

Once these are all undone the pump and flange will slide back far enough for you to fiddle it out of the top .

Whatever you do DON`T undo the pump to flange bolts.

When you come to putting it all back together you will see on the pump flanges inside edge has 2 marks and a very small notch out of the back of one geartooth,line this notch up with the "T" mark and slot it all back in without turning the engine or the pump.If you do it this way your timing will not be altered.

Once all back together leave the return pipe off until you have hand bled the system,then before re-connecting the pipes to the injectors turn the engine on the key until the injector pipes are purged of air,doesn`t take long,this means your pump is now full of diesel with no airlocks and well lubricated,re-connect injector pipes and go for a start.

Good luck mate and keep us informed.