varbut filtrs ciet un nelaiz pietiekami daudz degvielas cauri

Tipiska degvielas sabiezēšanas pazīme.

Varbūt kāds var patūlkot:

Hi astroman,you can take the pump off yourself in 2-3 hours ish,and it can be done through the bonnet opening .

Its not that difficult but some bolts are awkward.

1st turn your engine over with a 22 mm socket on the end of the crank pulley till the notch on the pulley lines up with tdc on the timing case with cylinder 1 on compression,look through the oil filler and you can just see the cam with a torch,the intercooler needs to come off,then all the pipework and wiring (multi plugs and heater plug cable)needs to be removed/pushed out of the way,take the throttle cable,air con actuator and fuel pipes off,injector pipes need to come off too,the pump is bolted to a flange with 2 bolts,LEAVE THESE TIGHT,DO NOT UNDO as it will alter your timing.The flange itself is bolted through the timing case with four 12mm bolts,one of which is behind the aircon pump bracket but can be undone with a spanner.

At the bottom rear of the fuel pump you will find a bracket that has one 14mm bolt into the pump and two 14mm bolts into the block,this is between the pump and starter motor and awkward to get to ,I found it easier to take the two out of the block.

Once these are all undone the pump and flange will slide back far enough for you to fiddle it out of the top .

Whatever you do DON`T undo the pump to flange bolts.

When you come to putting it all back together you will see on the pump flanges inside edge has 2 marks and a very small notch out of the back of one geartooth,line this notch up with the "T" mark and slot it all back in without turning the engine or the pump.If you do it this way your timing will not be altered.

Once all back together leave the return pipe off until you have hand bled the system,then before re-connecting the pipes to the injectors turn the engine on the key until the injector pipes are purged of air,doesn`t take long,this means your pump is now full of diesel with no airlocks and well lubricated,re-connect injector pipes and go for a start.

Good luck mate and keep us informed.

Pamēģini braukt pa citu ceļu...

izrādās es neesmu vienīgais, palasot forumus daudziem ir šīs problēmas. Visi vaino - pump seal. Kā saprotu tā ir sūkņa blīve vai blīvslēgs, pa kuru ierauj gaisu. It kā ir aprakstīts kā to novērst, bet neesmu tik advancēts angļu valodā lai sapratsu visu. Tulkotāj programmas arī iztulko tā, ka nevar saprast...

Sveiks,astroman, tu vari pats nonjemt suukni ~ 2 -3 stundaas, un to var izdariit izmantojot kapota atveri. ( shite neizklausas sevishkji labi bet iisti nezinu par ko ir runa, taa ka tulkoju burtiski.)

Nau nemaz tik gruuti, tachu dazjas skruuves ir taadas padiivainas.

1-mais pagriez klokjvaarpstu liidz zobrata (rulliisha) atziime sakriit ar TDC ( vot tagad neatceros ka to lviski tulkoja augshejais kaac tur punkts) atziimi uz bloka, taa lai 1 virzulis atrodas saspieshanas staavokli ( tipa laikam augsheeja punktaa), jaaskataas caur elljas uzpildes vaacinju buus knapi saredzams ar lukturiiti.

Jaanonjem strapdzeseetaajs ( intercoolers), tad visas caurules un vadi ( multi-rozetes un sildiitaaja vada rozete) ( te atkal nezinu kaa tulkot nav ne jaumas par ko bazars) ) jaanonjem vai jaziavaac kaut kur malaa.

Tad jaanonjem gaazes trose, kondicioniera palaideejs ( ??? ) un degvielas padeves caurules. Izhektora cauruliites arii jaanjem nost.

Suuknis ir pieskruuveets pie stienja ( maybe flancha ) ar 2 skruuveem. TAAS JAATSTAAJ PIESKRUUVETAS, NEKAADAA GADIIJUMA NEATSKRUUVEET - taa kaa tas ureiz mainiis gaazu sadales faazes (timing). Pats stienis/flancis ir piekruuveets pie gaazu sadales sisteemas korpusa ar chetraam 12 mm skruuveem ( tipa laikam domaac ka pie motora bloka kur atrodas sadalenes siksna), vien no kuraam atrodas aiz kondicioniera suknja stiprinaajuma, tachu ir aiznsiedzama ar parasto atsleegu.

Suuknja aimuguree apaksheejaa daljaa atrodas stiprinaajums ar 14 mm skruuvi kas skruuveejas pashaa suukni, un 2 arii 14 mm skruuves kas ieskruuveetas blokaa, taas atrodas starp suukni un starteri un ir gruuti aizsniedzamas. Man bija vienkaarshaak izskruuveet divas no bloka.

Tad kad taas ir aaraa suuknis un flancis/stienis buus pabiidams pietiekoshi lai to vareetu izkjekseet pa augshu.

Lai ko arii dariitu NEAIZTIECIET savienojumu starp suukni un flanci/stieni.

Kad pienaaks laiks visu likt atpakalj, uz shii te suuknja flancha ir 2 atziimes, un ljoti mazinsh izcilnis uz zobrata zoba azimugures. nostaadiet pretim sho te izcilni pret "T" atziimi, nepagriezhot ( ap savu asi acimredzot) nedz suukni nedz motoru. Ja visu ieveerosit kaa raxtiic, sadales faazes neizmainiisies.

Tad kad vis ir salikc vietaas, niepievienojiet vieniigi atgriezshanas ( laikam degvielas paarpluudes vaikaa vinju) cauruli, lai vareetu ar rokaam sisteemu atgaisot. Tad pirms pievienot inzhektoru cauruliites, "pagriezhat" motoru ar starteri kameer tiek "izdziits" gaiss no taam, kas neaiznjem daudz laika. Tagad suuknis buus pilns ar degvielu bez gaisa nosprostojumiem un arii "saelljots". Pievienojiet inzhektora cauruliites un meegjinat starteet.

Lai veicas un painformee muus.

Kaut kaa taa, ceru ka liidzeeju.

Liels paldies WALA. Jārunā ar dīzeļ dzinēju speciālistiem - par kuru blīvslēgu šeit ir runa...

Filtrs.. un iespējams, arī degvielas sūknis.

Bija līdzīgi ar benzīnmotoru, konstanti pēc 10km čau.

precizi tada pat lieta bija senos laikos 1998.g. uz vecaa labaa 524td bmw. problema vienkarsha- letais solkis bija un filtraa sagaja parafiinaa. atildiiju, piegazu piedevas un viss ok.

To Captain. Problēma jau tā, ka tas viss sākās vasarā. Ar aukstumu tam nekā kopīga.